Roadsteriin manuaaliaskiko

[MhG]

Onko edullisempaa tapaa muuttaa roadster manuaaliksi, kuin tuo koko tekniikan vaihto, ja vaatisiko sekin muutoskatsastuksen?
STOEWER-QUAD
Koitin kaivaa tietoa tuon alkuperäisen keskipakoiskytkimen parannuksesta, mutta en päässyt varmuuteen paraneeko se vain osia uusimalla, ja riittääkö pelkästään tämän vaihto, vai tarviiko uusia myös tämä?

[MhG]

Eikö tästä oikeasti ole kenelläkään tietoa, vai kysynkö itsestään selvyyksiä?

[atv200]

myyt sen nykysen koneen ja ostat niillä rahoilla käytetyn TL crossin 300cc koneen, käy suoraan kiinnikkeisiin ja on käsikytkimellä. Tosin kaippa se onnistuu muuttaa tuohon vakiokoneeseenkin, kun ovat identtisiä muuten.

[MhG]

Taidan ensin kokeilla vaihtaa tuon kytkin pakan ja tuon primary clutchin uusiin, jos sillä tokenisi. Tosin vielä en ole saanut selville, miksi tuolla on tavallaan kaksi kytkintä?

[MhG]

Selvisi kahden kytkimen tarkoituskin. Keskipakoiskytkin hoitaa vain tuon paikallaan olon/tyhjäkäynnillä olon, ja varsinainen luiston vaihteita vaihdettaessa. Samalla löytyi ohje bs300-18 kytkin säätöön.
How-to-do coupling technique Bashan BS300

This time, in the absence of a small engineering material nachlesbarem Summary for clutch thing. Have some "traditional" Range Hens ways to adjust my thinking. eg switching. I want to give apply this technique in my case, and will report if with me what is broken or has unusually longer
the aufgefürhten Range Hens way correspond MY method, I try through, nachsschauen and have developed superior to themselves and are niergenswo photocopied or official of a manufacturer specified. I of course was not liable for defects. lol. Not to do what got broken before, wanted me just thinking about the high centrifugal clutches to WEAR make technology: The Bashan 300 has a semi-automatic clutch system with 2 units. A centrifugal clutch as well as a normal multi-disc clutch. The centrifugal clutch is superior to the multi-disc clutch on the drive side. , the task of the centrifugal unit is solely to disconnect idle and grab the engine revs up. So ONLY when stopped at the traffic light, etc. So in the best case it works only in first or reverse gear. The multi-plate clutch done by a special mechanism continues its service during gear changes. The shift lever is constructed (assuming correct setting) is only automatically pressed the multi-plate clutch at the press (for example jetz times upshift) and then introduced the gear change. As long as the gear lever is pulled, the clutch is disconnected. Now you can slowly release the Lamellenk. restore the power circuit again. switching in the theory: Often defective centrifugal clutches are due to an incorrect switch behavior or an attitude of the disk clutch (in the centrifugal clutch it has no intervention). Procedure: The vehicle is in neutral gear as, idle. The multi-plate clutch is ON ..... the centrifugal clutch open because the speed is missing. Now we turn to the first input, the lamella. but opens easily with only short turns because the centrifugal clutch, sitting between her and the motor and open. Now we are to gas, centrifugal force and it goes vorran. Now the first gear change. Here is NOT to be gone from the gas and then switched, not completely. Because every time you do that opens the centrifugal unit and after completion of the centrifugal clutch gear change makes the services of the speed change and considers this as we know, not for long. The speed conversion to be performed by the multi-disc clutch. This time a Theoretical switching sequence of my possession since I perform and so far holds alll. When changing gear, eg 1 -> 2 currently stand now we say we 5000Umdrehungen to slowly lift the lever .... there is a punk from the multi-plate clutch now begins to separate / slide you realize this in plötlich increasing speed .... this point one must know (careful with incorrectly adjusted clutch nothing happens here but more on that later) in this "slip point" now reduces to the speed by gas removal, important is not completely a little between gas should stay. The aim of this Range Hens, it must be kept closed, the centrifugal clutch. So on with the text: The slip point is there and you go easy on the gas and pull the gear lever completely through the engine ... quitiert the clean separate with slightly higher speed. now hold the bit between gas ... slightly higher than idle, and the lever slowly let go downhill. You notice how the multi-plate clutch engages again and decreases the speed. Again give a little more gas. and the next thread. Important in the method: The intermediate throttle must be practiced. Although it will be kept closed but the centrifugal clutch, the speed difference must not be too high since otherwise these developed too much energy for the friction plate. The aim of the whole thing: The fliehkraftk. should remain closed during gear changes and the lamella accept the work. Assuming each gear change to idle as only separates the Fliehkraftk. The gas again ... and must give the frictional work done under load, of course. What this actually does not like. When downshifting the same ... we roll on to a traffic light and the engine brake holds the high speed ..... we would now get off the throttle and would turn down because of the lamella separation there and motor abruptly at idle. Again would the Fliehkraftk. rise and the game starts all over again. give a little gas in the rolling, really only slightly above idle. Shift down the lever slowly and press down in one continuous movement to stop (you realize again that separates the blade) and release (takes back). attitude: Let us firstonce the idle too. Order to accommodate to the best switch I set the idle speed like a point just below the gripping point of the centrifugal clutch. ie: first gear in and turn up the idle screw ... eventually begins to twitch to the quad ... the clutch will engage. Now we turn back down somewhat logically. Out until the motor without bucking and with uniform speed turns freely. commodity. now to Lamellenkupplungsschraube.Diese is located on the right side of engine and is secured with a lock nut. The screw regulates the Zugzeitpunkt and the game from the gear lever mechanism which it is to impress. The Perfect Setting provides the clean but it is closed when the gear lever is pulled clean BEFORE we opened the gear change is initiated. Maladjustments express themselves as follows: The quad jerks, less the load of the first gear and the gear lever can be soft as butter move ---> clutch play too great, the clutch may not release properly when driving, the clutch slips, the gear lever is difficult ---> clutch play too small, it will not come to clean traction It is said that when the gear lever is difficult, this is basically taken from BETTER than the other way around. Then you realize that you have to work against the spring force of the clutch and this is even pressed. Without resistance you know that you actually garnix operated except for the gear changes. But in case you notice the sharp jerk anyway through the quad during loading of the first gear. , the propeller works as follows: Turn I "out" takes up the gear lever before I turn purely later and the game is greater. When you turn out eventually noticed an increasing resistance, from this point one begins to impose the clutch already. I love going to the set of "top" to "bottom" before. So we turn the screw out until we are good at resistance and then relock. The first setting is okey if the load of the first gear nothing jerks and you have to pull the lever with a lot of power. now 13mm spanner in the pants bag and large screwdriver and an empty street or place where you can set at rest. Now you go in first or 2nd gear and are good at the gas you should quickly move away. Jetz you should really remember that slips the clutch, the more you have previously turned out the less traction is there. So purely idle, down from the Quad and the screw back in half a revolution, counter. And go back and play from the beginning. This is repeated until such time as no more slip is noted. Perfectly set has one: No slipping clutch, with a power-operable shift lever and not a jerk when loading the first gear. important is the choice of a proper oil with Jasonorm. Only then can the multi-plate clutch work well and live long.

Tosin omassa tuli todettua, että kytkimen jouset ovat vain liian löysät, koska käytännössä pakko säätää tiukimmalle, ja kärsiä nykivästä vaihteen vaihdosta.

[MhG]

Kytkinten vaihdolla ja pari prikkaan lisäämällä parantui tuo luisto. Oli joku laitellut heti nelisen kappaletta prikkoja jousien päälle. Ei ihme että säätäminen ei oikein onnistunut vanhalla kytkimellä.